Thursday, February 19, 2009

T: Is for things right and things wrong

Fashion this year has some hits but more misses. Charcoal is the new black. Skinny belts are in sex is out. Shoulder pads, the 40’s, the 60’s the 80’s. This is one confused era. Consumers will be buffeted by the recession with cozy sweaters, soft cowl necks, leggings and snugly scarves. Most of the looks are uninspired and straight-forward. Thick, oversized sweaters as coats, dresses, vests and capes are in demand. It is almost like a collective conscious of thought. Layers of sweaters upon sweaters showed up at Yigal Azrouel and Akiko Ogawa. Loose coats came in plaid at Adam and Monarchy, jackets sported hoods and scarves were tied casually. Sweaters are belted, mixed with sexy chiffons and paired with supple leggings or skinny jeans. Gone is the shape of the person. Yugal Azrouel dark rock and roll collection featured, lean linear shapes mixed with geometric accents. I especially loved the poncho coats, the Grecian cuts, the skinny stove pant, the Victorian sleeve and the fur, though PETA I’m sure is having a fit. Terexov collection was frustrating. His dresses were beautiful but the length made everyone look old fashion and out of date. Hitting at the calf, they were unflattering. I wanted to lower or hike up the hem on each and every piece. I did love the beige mirror dress, the fur coats and the charcoal grey suit. Sergio Davila made every male model look like a stepford, prep school gay boy. Collared tailored shirts, vests, jackets and leggings over pants, just looked queer. He fared better with the women’s sweaters but his exploitation of women in the blue dress that let one breast hang out was uncalled for. Chadwick Bell is a designer to watch. Starting to show his line in 2008 this is only the second fall line of his to debut and it is impressive. Bell found his inspiration for this collection from the French classic "Belle de Jour" starring Catherine Deneuve. Using fabrics traditionally associated with menswear: wool flannel, herringbone prints and mohair-cashmere blends, alpaca-wool jersey and leather and mink convey the masculinity. The intertwining of silk and chiffon add the feminity. The leather belts, gloves and cinched waist are the restraint she feels, while the subdued color palate shows the world she is bored with. Chadwick Bell understands the psyche of the women he designs for and that is a F.A.C.T.

Don't forget to enter the Barbie giveaway. You have until April 1st to send me your Barbie design and a brief letter as to why you want to win. E-mail me at suzanna@xplorefacts.com. The contest is open to ages 6-20. Prize will be awarded in time for Easter.

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