Friday, September 12, 2008

S: IS FOR SPRING CONTINUES TO STRUT IT'S STUFF!

Spring continues as fall is making its way into our world and fashion continues as designers connivence us they have the answer. Some do, Some don't. But remember this is subjective because what one person loves another doesn't.




Pamella Roland's show was elegant from start to finish with clean lines. It was simple and elegant, with perfect fits. I expect many a Washington Party, especially the Inaugural ball will be filled with her sense of stye. For these are the clothes made for that set. If Jackie Kennedy were alive this would be her favorite designer. Lots of looks with ruffles, brights amazingly vibrant greens, colbalt blue and reds, neutrals, yellow and golds. She credits the sensuous line in the art of contemporary painter and sculptor Ellsworth Kelly. I especially loved the polka dots especially the ones at the bottom of the coat and the evening gowns filled with huge dots, including a black and silver dot organza dress, a black and silver beaded polka dot dress; and a black and silver dot organza gown. Stripes also seem to be a trend that is developing and it was evident here. 30% of the pieces were studded with sequins or beads, due to her requests from Middle Eastern buyers for styles that bore such shiny embellishments. Another trend that continues is oversized bags. Well at least it is still fashionable to find the things you need.

For the Milly Spring 2009 collection bold bohemian prints, flowy 70s inspiration, and a general sense of fashion freedom prevailed. In a way this collection reminded me of a grown-up girl scout or brownie outfit updated. Highlighting olive, turquoise and orange, against brown and white, with a bit of purple and pink in the mix. From slouchy pants, billowy tops and dresses with cinched waists these pieces really run the gamut. There were a couple of safari pieces left over from last Spring. Designer Michelle Smith fabulously psychedelic groovy collection adds headband, fringed belts and bags, chunky beaded necklaces and crocheted hats. I loved the bathing suits and lacy party frocks that were ultra feminine.


Last but not least Vera Wang's collection. There is one thing women do not want and that is to look pregnant, when we are not. This collection was so billowy that most of the models looked 3-5 months pregnant. Another problem was the color palate stuck in minimalists’ charcoal and taupe with the occasional spot of color here and there, these models looked like zombies. This is spring and this was drab. Wang wants us in shapeless sack dresses and giant chain necklaces that though sparkly are just tacky . I did like the 20s vibe and some of the pants outfits were nice. She has always done a great tailored slouch pant but this to me is more for fall than spring and what was up with the patent leather nurse clogs? Those are just down right ugly! I am normally a fan of Ms. Wang but this collection just left me cold.

Spring is a time of rebirth and renewal and I for one want a light, airy and colorful palate and that is a cheerful F.A.C.T.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

T: To the library and tents we go!

Some more hits and misses and another icon to celebrate.

At The New York public Library, Jill Stuart line was like ghostly figures whisping through halls in chiffon. The light-as-air fabric in cloudlike shades (cream, gray, faint blue, pink were swaddled like tattered sails. This was the stuff I wore in the 80's. Chunky wedge ankle straps wrapped round and round and round with sheer gauzy ankle warmers, looked ethereal. The fully exposed breast from a model mid-show was uncalled for and who in their right mind would wear that? The statement necklaces were also big in her collection and is big for fall and apparently, will continue into spring. It's really about making a major piece of costume jewelry the focus of your look.

Serenaded by Brazilian artist Seu Jorge Carlos Miele's Spring collection brought flowing dresses and gowns primarily in silk chiffon to life. Prints and colors inspired by the rainforest landscape, hip-hugging cropped pants, stone embroidery and vests added edge to the collection. Ruffles like organza origami decorated the majority of his work. You could feel the warm winds of Rio dance between nature and the female body. Off-white, light beige, chantilly, nude, sand, mandarine, red, raspberry, navy blue, aqua, royal blue, light gold, black made up the color palate. Unique was black stone embroidery and opal stone appliqué. I am beginning to wonder if python is soon to be extinct as it seems to be used by several designer. I absolutely loved the semi-precious and diamond giant cuff bracelets by Juliana Scarpa.


Anna Sui's newest collection was stunning as matador inspired and Aztec prints, took us to Latin America. Bright colored shifts embroidered with butterflies and flowers, and breezy tunics worn over skinny-leg capris made us long for summer. Meant for the sun going down festive dance dresses and short flared skirts called for flamenco. Instead of lace, Sui used cottons with cutouts to achieve the same effect and it was beautiful and interesting. There were several rompers and jumpsuits meant for a day time outing or even to work. Like the Diane Von Furstenberg show these models loved what they were wearing and it made is love it as well and that is a F.A.C.T.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

C: Keep it Coming

This season is a lot of hit and misses. The hits are the graduating color in fabric that make you eye roam up and down. The head bands and hats and the comfortability of it all. The misses are the skinny belts under the chest that will make any women with a bust look pregnant. The Fredrick of Hollywood heels that will have orthopedist thrilled with all the clients and the dull color schemes in a spring/summer collection.

here are the some of the designer hits and misses:

I loved Diesel's spring collection Black Gold label. From start to finish you understand why this design teem is at the top of it's game. Militarystyle jackets with shimmery silver epaulets, sweatshirt-material genie pants, draped tank dresses and a blousoned shirtdress with a beaded tuxedo-shirt front dominated.
As you felt a part of an upbeat Fagin's gang from Oliver turned punk rock band. I loved the shirts with cummerbunds slung low as belts and the denim sandals. These rebels strutted zippers, chains, leather, and stone wash with just the right requisite edge. Faded pinstripes and Civil War caps lent an air of debauched Bohemia. Little blue capelets, blazers, and sexy minis were highly wearable, as were the jeans-naturally-those great blue wonders that have fueled the Diesel brand.

Alexander Terekhov's was voted one of the “Ten Most Talented to Watch” by Style.com. Terexov, collection was based globally with his signature, a world map print, which translated into long spaghetti halter dresses to low-cut chiffon gowns. Combining the styles of the 70's and 80's in bright pastel colors the leather and suede made it seem more like spring in Russia than here and the ruffles were overpowering. The silk, metallic multicolor fringe which reminded us on a wall maps run-in with a paper shredder seemed to want to hula on the dashboard of life. I loved the leather briefcases, that made his models seem more like jet-setting world travelers, than New York Fashion Week eye candy.

Peruvian designer Sergio Davila's collection for men and women was a hit. I loved the pin strip suits for men, especially the way the pants fit. His knitwear for both men and women was simple yet artistically interesting with little pulls and slits in the back.
His color palate was earth tones with cobalt blue and it made the collection seem effortless. The longer shorts were more flattering and wearable. This is a collection for a sportier women and man.

Akiko Ogawa made her debut at Fashion Week and she is a combination of hits and misses. On the positive side if she had stuck to coats and jackets she would of been a success. Also her textiles of the graduating color scheme were stunning. Again she used leather and her skinny pants but didn’t exactly fit. The bra tops and high waisted shorts will only look good on few body types. The make-up and the music were so horrible that they detracted from the whole show.


Like life sometimes there are hits and sometimes there are misses and that is a F.A.C.T.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

A: Is for Art Icons!

A icon is a symbol that represents the best of something. As fashion week progresses two iconic women stand out for their complete sense of what we want. They understand our changing moods, They know we want to be comfortable and go from the business place to a night on the town without having to go home and change. In a world thats headed politically and economically mad, we want color! We want freshness! We want a better time and place. Nicole Miller and Diane Von Furstenberg have given us in their collections reminiscence of the past with a breath of fresh air. A collection is good when you want to buy two or more of the outfits. A collection is great when you not only see yourself in it, but every size, shape and age. It transcends the stick figure models into a real world. After so many drab shows Nicole Miller breathed life into what seemed stuck. Nicole Miller and Diane Von Furstenberg have turned their sophisticated styles into young, fresh, chic and comfortable.
Using Carnaval and Voodoo, Nicole's fashion danced to life. Patterns splashed with vibrance. Some of the collection seemed made for Michele Pfiffer in her days of looking like Annie Hall. Baggy pants, men inspired shirts topped with a vest and hats make an adorable comeback. A lace dress, beaded with a print of voodoo dolls. A shirt dress with jersey ties, stripes, sparkly skirts and bold prints leaped to life. This season there is a lot of asymmetrical, constructed pieces and a male ying/yang influence. This show was no exception. The difference is it did it well. I loved the mismatching that though subtle, was powerful and the solid, draped jersey dresses with layered necklines, in basic black or bright magenta were a standout. I can not wait to own one. Boyish jackets with outer seams, a crisp cotton raincoat round off the collection.

Fashion is ageless, and if you don't believe me take a look at Diane von Furstenberg's look book. For her Spring 2009 collection, rock goddess, flower children and gypsies emerged to spread the love. Tunic dresses, peasant blouses and smock tops, whimsical frocks and dazzling beading drew our eyes. Diane understood our need for youth and she changed with the times. The wrap dress was gone (unless you count a bathing suit and a maxi) and the look was "seductive" because it was worn with unabashed freedom. Voluminous airy chiffon, long flowing maxi dresses contrasted against a more tailored construction. In the hair, flowers and feathers added a unique touch. It should be the accessory for season, if buyers are given the chance to purchase them. All in all Diane Von Furstenberg mad us fall in love with her all over again.

I am looking forward to the Anna Sui collection and pray she has followed in these two women's path and offers us more fashion to love and that is a hopeful F.A.C.T.

Monday, September 8, 2008

F: is for Fashion Explosion!

With fashion dominating the streets, this column dedicates itself to fashion week and it's designers, trends and foretelling. Clothes that looked like they rolled out of bed, draped and were constructed to hang asymmetrically paraded down the runway. Comfortability, skinny belts and shoes that looked like they were bought at Fredrick's of Hollywood dominated. Dangerously high gladiator heels slipped, slid and clunked down the aisles and I will be surprised if nobody breaks their neck. We learned why the royalty of Fashion are worshipped and some just missed the mark. My first show was Israeli-born designer Yigal Azrou's Spring collection. At first I was confused. Dark, somber and reminiscent of a funeral Yigal's clothes failed to impress. Many of the fabrics were washed and texturised to appear airy and voluminous, making the models look bigger than they were. In a lot of the shows a male influence dominated. This show was no exception. From the somberness this show made the world seem without hope. I was a fan of Yigal Azrou but this collection was utilitarian and colorless making for a sad world. Another of the trends is a high waisted look. In a bathing suit, nobody looks good. Not even a model. While the overall presentation was functional, it lacked in energy and inspiration - both of which are necessities on the opening day of Fashion Week.

Next up Duckie Brown who used sports fabrics and shapes. Most of the models wore stretch bodysuits underneath their clothes, with 3/4 pants like bike messengers. Blazer with a laser-cut mesh pattern, ventilated gym shorts, a zip-front jacket that was patterned after a Nike windbreaker, with panels of gray pinstripes and mesh and an elasticized waist, suggested an evolution of men’s wear into something more tailored to the athletic man. Oversized, baggy and boxy is not flattering. Again the pallet was somber with blacks, grays and ecru dominating with sprinkles of sky blue and cannery yellow. In trends for men, pajama's, round necks, layering and longer shirts under jackets. I can see how a men might love the comfortability but this was not a look to be worn any place serious.


Squawking seagulls and the horn of a ship introduced Rubin Singer's "Voyage". Finally color with bold polka dots, angled stripes, and dreamy prints making you dream of St. Tropez. There were the ecru cotton and silk ottoman suit with a python trim; turquoise eel-skin panel dress; the Oceania cotton dress with coral piping that stiffened the collar with regal bearing; and a printed cotton shift with a cowl neck demure enough to lure Jackie. O. Ruben's Singer's collection seemed to be trying to dress the first lady or the second.


Well known in certain circles but not mainstream B Michaels. Slim silhouettes, bodices that hugged, sweetheart fronts with mesh backs and glamor filled the nightclub Arena. His entrancing gowns embrace feminism, luxury and a by gone era. Again this was a designer with Michele Obama and Sarah Palin in mind. His mens looks were a little to Liberace for me and the placing of the red stitching on the jeans had your eyes headed directly for his crotch. 50's inspired his color scheme seemed all over the place. His suits for women though were well tailored and I loved the mens shirts with them.

Tomorrow: Women who make you want to buy their whole collection.

Fashion not only tells us what to wear but what not to and that is a F.A.C.T.