S: Is for more of the same!

Upon the heels of Temperley London, Anna Sui's imagination and eclectic inspiration captured Fashion Week. Galvanizing the pre-Raphaelites, Art Nouveau, Tiffany lamps, Fortuny, and the American Indian this collection wowed. Fringing, beading, embroidery, patchwork, ruching, draping, ribbons, bows, metallic threads – no detail has been left out, and that was just the tights and boots! The clothes are glorious. Smock dresses over frilly skirts, crystal-encrusted tunics with baggy trousers tucked into boots, long, curvy dresses in floral velvet, handkerchief-hems on trapeze-line smocks, oversized knitted coats in arty blocks of red, blue yellow and black, gold-embroidered aprons tied over hippie dresses, sequined, embossed and cut-out leather jackets with washed georgette dresses, Mongolian lamb vests and cloaks with velvet gowns….all styled, layered and accessorized with madcap, magpie charm and enthusiasm. There were minidresses and maxi dresses, and velvet shorts worn with tights. Psychedelic iridescent striped chiffon dress worn with a hip-granny sweater vest on top and a caftan with a butterfly print. Lit by bright purple, and certainly captured the late 1960s-early '70s vibe that's been on other runways. We are headed back to the 60's and it is a glorious trip!

Brazilian designer Carlos Miele's clothes are luxe, elegant and sophisticated. Oversized cable knits, in cream and scarlet, worked asymmetrically across the body and with huge roll-collarsand pom-pom trims, came with pencil skirts. Fitted cocktail dresses in red and saffron satin were cut to cling, with fine pleating and stitching achieving a corset-effect and floaty, long gowns in foliage-coloured chiffons featured dainty fingertip pleating. Red carpet gowns included a white, full-skirted style with intricate black beding forming the single strap and extending down the bodice and a beautiful champagne ballgown in tulle with a gold-beaded front-panel. With traditional winter-wear comes fur, and Miele provided more than enough. Mink, fox, and rabbit fur adorned vests, boleros, and coats, while black ostrich leather showed up in almost every accessory. Architectural details like dresses with hidden pockets and coats with pleated silk cuffs were evidence of Miele’s inspiration, while wide black belts cinching the waists of coats and pencil skirts imparted an urban feel. Geometric-printed, jewel-toned silk chiffon numbers were followed by more elaborate dresses with embroidered lace and pleated satin bodices or frothing skirts fashioned from metallic crushed silk. If I were going to any award show this is the designer to make you look breathless.

Last but not least the shows of the winning Project Runway contestants went off. All I know is that Victoria Beckham is a judge, which makes no sense considering she has the tackiest taste in fashion. Will it be Christian, Sweet P, or Rami? Sometimes social consciousness is based on how we look and feel. It allows us to express who we are and that is always an interesting F.A.C.T.

T: Is for Tripping the light Fantastick

Nanette Lepore combined black and rich shades of violet (plum, pink, rose, merlot) with tweed jackets, striped shirt dresses, silk cardigans and pinstripe pants for a feminine take on classic looks. Tailored plaids were punctuated with shades of fuchsia. Out is bohemian-chic look which I personally love. Pleats and bows adorned high-waisted, fitted skirts, and black lace and buttons were prominent in the dresses. A pink-and-black plaid bouclé coat with oversize collar that formed a bow was the first, and best, look, while a merlot-colored pinstripe corseted skirt was representative of this collection's more sophisticated tone. Also on display were Ms. Lepore's fall 2008 shoe collection, which included pumps in mauve and green with black heels and bows at the toe.

Aiming for clothes that were "camera candy" Michael Kors clothes were made to make celebrities look like movie stars. The look was retro, returning to the days of Grace Kelly. Tortoise-shell, cat-eye glasses, cardigans and pencil skirts adorned the feminine set, while the men strutted their stuff in slim suits and fedoras. Big floral prints featured shades of purple, green and dark yellow, all trends for next season. Dressy blended with casual shapes and fabrics. Putting a half-belt detail on the front of oversized sweaters helped show the shape of the woman underneath. Fur stoles also elevated those aforementioned daytime dresses so they truly could go all day long. Luxurious, glamorous, with long tops over the skinny bottoms made for a "polished urbanity."

My favorite by far was Temperley London who took the sexy secret agent theme even further with a lush, opulent and decadent collection inspired by Mata Hara. The collection mixed both the military associations of the eras and Ms Hari’s unashamedly ostentatious wardrobe, literally dripping with jewels, embellishment and ornate decoration. The jewel-box color palette echoed the rich theme – violet, emerald and limen splashed amongst elegant soft cream, rose and parchment neutrals.
Tulle dresses were encrusted with jewels, with butterfly-wing dresses drenched in glittering sequins. Jewel-encrusted clutches echoed the de luxe after-dark theme of a glamorous femme fatale with a surprisingly wearable Edwardian punk school girl aesthetic. I recognized my own taste as boots as thigh as they go allowed for the gogo girl in us all to come out. I can not wait to own pieces of this collection and that is a F.A.C.T.

C: Is for the Contrast of Fashion!

Fall this year brings both excitement and envy. Glorious hues and fabrics mixed with a variety of textures. Proenza Schouler light fabrics in metallics and sequins were melded with heavy wools and velvets, creating an environment of chic. Cocoon coats, sequined and satin wide-leg pants, fur-collar jackets and button-down shift dresses contributed to the collection. Jewel-toned mini dresses in purple, forest green, and mustard yellow. Special attention to coats and I can’t help but notice the not-so-skinny trousers. In fact, the one I’m featuring is a palazzo, extra-wide, very loose, and ultra-fab pants. This is a collection I want to own.

Nicole Miller's yin-and-yang dynamic paired boxier jackets and cozy cocooning sweaters with super skinny black pants with patches of satin. The trend that seems to be emerging is either loose tops and tight bottoms or vice versa. The miniskirt is also on the rise here as well as at BCBG Max Azria, Erin Fetherston and Kimora Lee Simmons' Baby Phat line.
It's doubtful that Miller's customers already have a black, zip-front catsuit like the one she put on the runway. A silver-lame printed tunic dress with a halter neckline, worn with a black blouse underneath, was flashy but again balanced on top with an element of restrained. Structured evening gowns with delicious open backs and tasteful metallic fabrics. It is a year and line for a powerful, strong women.

PORTS 1961 use to be one of my favorite lines. Known for its romanticism and throwback to another era the clothes seem to dance with you. Tia Cibani new show found inspiration in Gaelic mythology. The Fall 2008 collection entitled “Lassair,” meaning flame or fire, featured every color of the Scottish rainbow. Limerick, ross, indigo, and a vibrant shade of red were offset by neutral dulse, peebles, sycamore, and cork tones. I loved the colors, the way it moved, it is extremely sensual. A number of pieces made use of feathers to further enhance mother nature’s presence, either on the fabric itself or as a head piece. Moreover, jeweled ribbing and cinched waistlines created powerful feminine silhouettes, especially when combined with sharp and sleek overcoats or jackets. However, the designs took on an avant-garde form. Taking the “street” concept to another worldly level, some of the shredded black shapes towards the end seemed to evoke the 80s grunge era, or in a few wildly out-there cases, simply tattered but fashion-friendly garbage bags.

This next season opts for the contrasts of billowy vs second skin as well as opulent jeweled tones to the starkness of nature. It seems as our political campaigns hit snares so does fashion and that is a F.A.C.T.

A: Is for Art that is skin deep!

I was sent an e-mail with the art of Guido Daniele. I was struck by the limitless creativity that resides within the human spirit so I sought him out to learn more. Born in Italy he attended the Brera School of the Arts majoring in sculpting. Moving to India he began painting and participating in group art exhibitions, ending up as a hyper-realistic illustrator testing different painting techniques. Using a airbrush technique he painted back-stages in different sizes for artistic and advertising, tv commercials and programs. In 1990 he added a new artistic experience to his previous ones: using the body painting techniques he created and models bodies as canvases for different situations such as advertising pictures and commercials, fashion events and exhibitions. His personal artistic research has recently led him to the combination of the two traditional portrait techniques, which are photography and oil painting. In 2000 "Handimals" earned great international interest. To learn more log onto www.guidodaniele.com and you will see more of this unique mind. F.A.C.T.S sometimes are the enjoyment of the human spirit in action.

Enjoy!

F: Is for the sweeping trends of Fashion Week

Fashion week starts and like our country it is scary unless you weight next to nothing. The lines of Max Azria brought back the bandage look of Herve Leger who figured out numerous ways to use a bandage. These skin tight dresses leave no room for any flaws. Chunky knits worn like the shedding skin of a snake mean that anorexia and bulimia will soon be on the rise. Detailed embellishments included feathers, knit and wool accents, asymmetrical shoulder straps, and abstract fabric appliques. The wool jumpsuit and dropped-waist cut gowns will almost certainly be part of a fall trend.





















Tracy Reese was just edgy enough with flares of romance and femininity. Bright colors, asymmetrical details and a mix of unexpected prints, the fall collection felt new and refreshing. Mixing florals with paisleys, and paisleys with animal prints for a shot of youthfulness make this collection came to life. Icy blues and greys opened up the show in the form of one-shoulder chiffon frocks and voluminous skirts floating like clouds. Reese's vibrant world is sprinkled with sequins, metallics, berets, bold geometric prints, bright orange, plaids, stripes, ruffles, and all shades of red. Its as if a French girl and a plaid school chick have formed a friendship based on fashion. Tracy Reese makes me love fashion.

Donna Karan's DKNY collection glows with "eclectic glamour." A throwback to the '70s vibe bow blouses, slouchy wide-leg pants and floaty peasant dresses struted down the runway. Standing out were the knits and fringed sweater dresses in camel, purple, gold and red. A purple capelike swing jacket and a brown patent-leather coat with a drawstring waist were new versions of classic fall coats glittering in jewel colours. Baby doll dresses and a short micro mini were her signature pieces and let the world know legs are here to stay and that is a F.A.C.T.